Stefano reports on Andrew Mckenzie

01low 

25low 

29bis_low 

06low 

 

Dear Shaded boys+ girls, 

Part
Querelle de Brest and gamine de Paris, part Buster Keaton and Berlin in the
30s, I must admit that this is what I was thinking during the latest McKenzie collection, men???s fall/winter
2009  and a preview of the female
one. But the designer told us he was thinking about a modern day ???Lost
generation???, the followers of the Beat Generation, ???cos as Jack Kerouac wrote
"The Beat Generation is a group of kids on a street corner
talking about the end of the world." Now a
nxiety,
crisis and a lack of prospects send young people on a journey in the past, in
search of history, references and certainty. So all Andrew Mckenzie???s clothes
are aged and worn, with a sense of familiarity and belonging.

Must-haves
of the collection: the oversized tie, the boots in leather or crocodile, featuring
metal details with a mountain look, a Royal Navy duffel coat that reaches down
to the feet.

Main
protagonist of the collection is the three-piece suit in a ???pulled apart??? way
to reach new proportions: the trousers have a high waist and a loose fit, the
jacket is drawn in and slender, the waistcoat is close-fitting.

A new
man is born in the Andrew Mckenzie's world, the collection is now more than just
denim (which ??? by the way ??? is still one of the best around!).